Rock-cut Sculptures
Worthy of a detour is the Aukana Buddha 50km (30miles) south of Mihintale. This isolated colossus is the most perfectly preserved ancient statue in Sri lanka, though it is often wrongly dated. For many years it was attributed to the reign of the 5th century King Dhatusena, but the style of carving points to a later date. Whatever the date, it is a magnificent image, carved out of the living rock with supreme assurance. Although it stands erect, firmly planted on both feet, the body is graceful. This effect is helped by the beautifully flowing drapery which appears almost diaphanous.

The Buddha's heavy right hand is raised in the posture of blessing, his other hand delicately touches his shoulder, as if holding his pleated robes in place. His expression is serene, and from his curled hair there sprouts the flame signifying super-enlightenment. It is only when you lower your gaze to the massive feet resting on the vastness of this statue. it rises to 13 meters (42ft) canopied by a reconstruction of the brick image house said to have contained it when it was first built. Unfortunately, to modern eyes this gives it the appearance of some one sheltering under railway bridge.

Best seen at dawn, Aukana (which means "sun eating") is an astonishingly accomplished piece of work and the unknown scuptor must have been a great master, but did his inspiration match his technical brillaince? it is a matter of taste. It seems clear that the artist was aiming for a sublime style in which expressiveness would be out of place, but if the blank expression fails to interest you, then the monumental Buddha at sasseruwa may be more to your liking. A good copy of the Aukana Buddha was erected in Colombo in the 1970s. It stands opposite the Bandaranaike conference Hall on Banddhaloka mawatha.

A journey of around 10km (6miles) brings you to Sasseruwa and another image at the site of an ancient cave monastrery which provides a fascinating contrast with the Aukana Buddha. The standing is nearly as large (12meters/39ft) but if anything, it has even greater impact. It makes up for in vivacity what it lacks in refinement. The statue stands in a niche created by the removal of stone around it, as though he was always there, standing within the stone, waiting for the sculptor to uncover him.

There are some mystrious examples of rock-cut art in the Up Country at Buduruvalagala. Two bodhisattvas, each attended by two figures of uncertain identity, stand on either side of a larger central Buddha figure. This courtly group stand in a romantically overgrown glade.