Dondra
5km (3miles) southeast of Matara, means "The City of the God" and is the southernmost point of Sri lanka, marked by an octagonal lighthouse which is the tallest on the island, standing at 54 metres (176ft). From here, beyond the view of local fishing boats riding the indigo waves under faultless skies, there is nothing but horizon and more horizon until Antarctica. The Portuguese ravaged the Mahs Vishnu Devala, a 7th -century shrine with a roof of gilt copper that once shone like a beacon out to sea. The tawdry modern buildings still host a ten-day fair and perahera, venerating the Hindu god Vishnu (as opposed to Buddha) coinciding with the Kandyan Perahera in july/ August.

Just before the next main coastal town of Dikwella (meaning "Long Bridge") 22km (13.5miles) from Matara, you'II pass Polhena beach, which has an inshore reef and good waves for surfing. About 2km (1mile) along the road out of Dikwella in Sri Lanka, 50meters (164ft) high, which was built in the 1960s. As though to prove the size of this huge seated Buddha, there is an eight-storey building behind it, but this is not just for show - it contains a stair case lined with brightly coloured comic strip-style paintings of the Buddha's life. The oldest part of the temple complex is 250 years old but holds little of real interest. However, the rest houses an unusual and gory display of figures and paintings depicting the punishments meted out in hell and warnings of how to avoid begin sent there. During the November-December full moon, an evening procession with dancers and elephants is held here.

Just 6km (3.5miles) past Dikwella, by the 188km marker, a right-hand turn leads to the spectacular Hoo-aaniya Blowhole at Mawella. High seas, especially during the southwest monsoon in june, force water 23 metres (75ft) vertically through a natural rock chimney to the suface and then 20metres (65ft) into the air. Villagers say that when the sea really rough the spout reaches the height of three coconut trees.

The pink beaches west of the bluest blue of Tangalla Bay 195km (121miles) from colombo, look inviting but you should be wary of the steep dropoffs and strong waves. You may prefer to head instead for the beautiful white sandy beaches to the east of town - one of the most appealing spots along Sri Lanka's southern coast. The offshore reef breakes the surf and provides good diving and calm water. There are many small guest houses at both ends, with larger modern hotels along the better beaches. For its size, the town has a relaxed atmosphere with a busy market and many reminders of its Dutch hertiage.