This last outpost of the northern hemisphere has unexpected inhabitants including stilt fishermen and Hindu swamis, plus long expanses of tantalising, unspoilt beaches The South Coast of Sri Lanka tends to be forgotten at the expense of the more accessible and popular coastline nearer Colombo. But the road to the deep south plunges you into a region rich in history and cultural interest and there are several vast and impressive nature reserves, including Yala, Bundala and Uda Walawe.

It all begins at Galle Which is believed to be the possible location of the city of Tarshish, of Biblical fame, the source of a thriving trade in " gold, silver, ivory, apes and peacocks".

Galle
In 1505 a Portuguese fleet set sail to intercept Moorish vessels carrying cargoes of spices, but it was driven off Course and landed at what was to become the gateway to the south. The newcomers named the harbour galle, after the crowing Cockerels that they heard at the end of the day - the latin for cockerel is "gallus" . Hence the name Punto de Gale, which the British later Corrupted to Point de Galle.

Today, the new town of Galle jostles with the old fort. The bus and train Stations are just north of the Fort. Within Walking distance of its imposing walls. Outside the walls galle seems hurried, worried and not a little scruffy, but once within the fort the pace slinks back through the Centuries, and the surprising calmness is delectable. The fort is small enough to be enjoyed in an afternoon's stroll ending up on the western walls to watch the sunset.

The only punctuation to this oasis for the senses is that of relentless hawkers who follow you with hand made lace and other wares. The lace can be very fine but if you pause for even a cursory glance you will not be left alone until you have bought something.

The Cultural Museum ( open Tues-sun; entrance fee) is housed in a Dutch Colonial Warehouse on Church Street as you enter the fort. Next to it is the New Oriental Hotel, which is neither new nor oriental but the oldest hotel on the island-built by the Dutch in 1684 as their governor's headquaters. The lobby, with old maps on the walls and rattan Chaises longues on the veranda, is a time machine transporting you back to the 1860s when if first opened. Staff will proudly show you around the spacious, if tired surroundings, including the dusty, musty old billiard room and the beautiful leafy garden surrounding the small swimming pool; a small fee is charged to nonguests who want to swin.

Next door, the small Groote Kerk ( Great Church) is the oldest Protestant church in Sri Lanka - dating from 1755, although the original structure was built 100 years earlier. It holds services in English twice monthly. The National Maritime Museum (Open daily, 9am - 5pm; entrance fee) covers all aspects of life in and around the sea, including scale models of whales and an extraordinary " Walk into the sea" diorama showing the consruction of coral reefs.

An Evening Stroll around the fort walls and bastions in time for the sunset is something of a tration, even among the locals. You can walk along the top of the walls, which are partly built of fossilised coral, nearly all the way round. Starting at the modern lighthouse at the bottom of church street (uninteresting in itself but offering a stupendous view if you can locate the keeper), Work your way round so that you are on one of the fort, watch your step over the large arrow slits in the walls for you might trample on several romantically entwined young couples. Sheltering under gaudy umbrellas for privacy, they arrive early to nestle down in the best seats for the nightly performance of the dying sun.

On the promontory on the east side of the harbour is the Closenberg Hotel with rattan easy chairs on its verands and white-clad waiters ever ready with a tray of drinks; another fine place from which to watch the sunset. This was once the residence of a Captain Bailey, who bought it from the British crown in 1857 and named it. "Villa marina" after his wife. The old-fashioned rooms in the main part of the house have massive teak furniture and mosquito nets. But the newer rooms with balconies facing the sea provide more privcy.

There are some interesting drives out of Galle, offering a wild, Inscious, Jungly contrast to the Stark fort-town. About 3km (2miles) before arriving in Galle you will have passed a new five-satr hotel designed by Geoffery Bawa, The Lighthouse which has apanoramic view of the coast. Heading north on the Udugama Road, about 20km (12miles) from the town past lowland tea estates, is one of Sri Lanka's few remaining pockets of primaeval rainforest the Kottuwa Rainforest. Despite its abundance of orchids, hanging creepers sheets of moss and exotic birds, it is less well-known than the much larger Sinharaja Rainforest Reserve, another 20km (12miles) futher north. This reserve contains spectacular rainforest scenery and wildlife - indeed, the highest concentration of animals unique to Sri Lanka are found here. There are guides to show you around, but you need a permit from the Forest Department in Colombo if you want to stay overnight in the reserve's camp.