For many, the ancient highland capital
of Kandy is still the true heart of Sri Lanka, where the
last Sinhalese kings held out against the European powers,
protected by the natural defences of their steep hills and
dense tropical forests. Portuguese expeditions reached Kandy
in the late 16th century, only to be trapped and put to'the
sword. The more pragmatic Dutch reduced the Kandyan kingdom
by blockading its supply routes, but Kandy was finally defeated
and its last king overthrown by the British in 1815.
The journey of 115km (73 miles) inland from Colombo takes
up to three hours by rail or road, and as your vehicle
crosses deep river valleys, negotiates numerous hairpin
bends and winds upward through increasingly steep hill
country -where cinnamon and nutmeg plantations scent the
breeze, tame elephants trudge by under heavy burdens,
and flying foxes like ragged umbrellas hang from high
branches -it is easy to see how Kandy maintained its independence
for so long. In fact, its kings banned the building of
roads to the coast, to hinder would-be European conquerors
still further. 'The ways are many but very narrow, so
that but one can go abreast: wrote Robert Knox, the Scots
venturer who was held captive in Kandy for 20 years in
the late 17th century.
Surrounded by cool, lush mountain scenery, Kandy is the,gateway
to a very different aspect of Sri Lanka, one Which those
visitors who restrict their stay to the 1 country's coastal
resorts never see South of Kandy, the cool green slopes
of Sri lanka's tea country around Nuwara Eliya, beneath
the Country's highest peak, Pidurutalagala. Here, the
hills rise to an average height of more than 900m (2952ft)
with several summits which rise to more than 2000m (6562ft).
With its waterfalls, caves and lush woodland sheltering
unique animal, bird and butterfly species, this region
is a delight for walkers and explorers with an interset
in Sri Lanka's natural wonders as well as its ancient
cultural hertiage.
Kandy
At 500m (1640ft) above sea level, Sri Lanka's Second city
has a Climate that comes as a Pleasantly cool contrast
to hot and humid Colombo. A mid lush green fields and
plantations - evidence of the region's well-watered fertility
- the city stands within a loop of the Mahaweli Ganga,
one of Sri Lanka's more Substantial rivers, on the north
shore of Kandy Lake an artificial island in the centre
of the lake, and had a number of his enemies drowned slowely,
tied to stakes and gasping for air as the waters of the
lake rose.
