Mulgirigalla
Just 16km (10miles) north of tangalla, past Beliatte, is
the Pahala Vihara Cave Temple of Mulgirigalla. Allow at
least an hour to ascend at a leisurely pace and try to arrive
early to beat the heat-not least because you will have to
do the entire climb barefoot and bareheaded. Halfway up
is a unique Victorian monks graveyard, beside the entrance
to a small school for trainee Buddhist bhikkus (monks).
Heading east from Tangalla, a road heads north from Nonagama
to Uda Walawe National Park, where
some 600 elephants roam freely around the park's 308sq km
(119sq miles) of land. There aare many places to stay overnight
on the edge of the main Park, and Jeep safaris with a guide
are available to view many species of deer, wild boar and
Jackals.
Back on the coast Hambantota is
the largest population of Malay Muslims. Its name is said
to derive from sampans, the boats which the Malays arrived
in, and tota or harbour. From Sampantota it is but short
step to Hambantota. Hambantota is famous for its buffalo
curd which it claims to be the best in the country. There
are many stalls selling it-easily recognisable with their
strings of clay pots swinging from the awnings. Hambantota's
other big industry is the ancient method of salt-making,
and you will see many evaporating salt pans on the roads
in and out of town. The main tourist attraction is the Bundala
Bird Sanctuary, which stretches along the coast east
of Hambantota and is one of the best parks for instant gratification:
in a four-or five hour Jeep ride, you may see elephants,
2.5metre (8ft) crocodiles, and flamingos - which are among
the 150 species of bird found in the area. Afternoon safaris
in the dry season (December-may) provide visitors with the
best chance of seeing the wildlife.
Mulgirigalla Rock Temple
Mulgirigalla " The summit of the
Rock " was confusingly known as adam's berg
or Adam's Peak until the 18th century. The Portuguese, infamous
for their destruction of Buddhist sites, misunderstood the
monks who explained that the frescoes were of the "
first man " . Rather than Buddha, they decided that
these were images of Adam and left the cave temples untouched.
In the 17th century a Dutch general misled some visiting
persians who hadlanded in Matara asking to be taken to Adam's
Peak. Having no intention of marching 160km (100miles) through
difficult territory, he led them on a roundabout route from
matara to Mulgirigalla dragging the journey out for six
days.
Probably founded in the 1st Century BC, this 105-metre (350ft)
rock temple is smaller than Sigiriya but rises almost vertically
out of the surrounding forest. With well preserved and beautifully
painted cave temples carved into five levels, the rock was
also th site of an important Discovery; the ola-leaf scripts
discovered here in the 19th century were the key to the
translation of Sri lanka's most informative ancient text,
the Mahavamsa. It is also the site of a Buddhist graveyard,
a rarity enforced on the monks by the British who disapproved
of cremation. |